Alabaster Caverns, located about 30 miles northeast of Woodward, Oklahoma, is a different sort of cave than the caves most of us think of. The more common caves, the ones we're more familiar with, are limestone caves. They form as water moves through limestone rock, cutting and dissolving away passages and cavities as it goes. The action of water dissolving and redepositing limestone leads to the formation of beautiful cave structures like stalactites and stalagmites, columns, draperies, soda straws, popcorn, and ... bacon? Yeah, bacon.
But there's not a speck of limestone to be found in Alabaster Caverns. Like much of the surrounding countryside, Alabaster Caverns is found within a thick layer of gypsum rock. In fact, that's where the name comes from - alabaster is a type of gypsum. And it is the gypsum that makes this cave so special and unique.
You won't see any of those typical cave formations that you'd expect from a limestone cave, but what you will see is just as impressive and inspiring.
But there's not a speck of limestone to be found in Alabaster Caverns. Like much of the surrounding countryside, Alabaster Caverns is found within a thick layer of gypsum rock. In fact, that's where the name comes from - alabaster is a type of gypsum. And it is the gypsum that makes this cave so special and unique.
You won't see any of those typical cave formations that you'd expect from a limestone cave, but what you will see is just as impressive and inspiring.
Alabaster Caverns has the distinction of being the world's largest gypsum cave that is open to the public. More adventurous visitors can go wild caving and explore one of the park's undeveloped caves on their own. For the rest of us, hour-long guided tours are offered every hour on the hour between 9:00 and 4:00 for $10 (with discounts for kids, seniors, and active military).
I arrived at the park about 25 minutes early, and decided to wander around a bit before my tour started. There is a network of (above-ground) hiking trails leading off from behind the visitor's center. I didn't have time to fully explore them, but there is a pretty spectacular view behind the visitor's center, less than 100 feet from the cave entrance. Check it out:
I arrived at the park about 25 minutes early, and decided to wander around a bit before my tour started. There is a network of (above-ground) hiking trails leading off from behind the visitor's center. I didn't have time to fully explore them, but there is a pretty spectacular view behind the visitor's center, less than 100 feet from the cave entrance. Check it out:
After taking in the view, I headed back to meet up for my tour. The cave entrance is right next to the visitor's center, and even on the short path down you started seeing gypsum crystals poking out of the ground. A bit of a preview of what was to come.
  There's gypsum in them thar hills! |  Looking back from the cave entrance |
There are numerous signs and warnings posted in the visitor's center that you shouldn't do the tour if you have mobility issues or other medical conditions, but I think they're being overly cautious. There are quite a few stairs leading down to the entrance, but once inside the path only has gentle slopes - no huge changes in elevation. The guide pointed out all the places where there was uneven terrain to the older couple on our tour (one of whom walked with the assistance of walking sticks), and they made it through just fine.
The temperature in the cave is in the 50's year-round. It's a bit cool, so you may want to bring a light jacket, but you won't need a heavy coat or anything. I went in without a jacket and was pretty comfortable throughout the tour.
One of the first things our guide told us once we got inside is that it's perfectly ok to touch anything in the cave. Usually touching is a big no-no in caves, because the oils in our skin can damage limestone cave formations. But they apparently can't damage gypsum, so we were able to touch the walls and exposed crystals as we went through the cave.
The temperature in the cave is in the 50's year-round. It's a bit cool, so you may want to bring a light jacket, but you won't need a heavy coat or anything. I went in without a jacket and was pretty comfortable throughout the tour.
One of the first things our guide told us once we got inside is that it's perfectly ok to touch anything in the cave. Usually touching is a big no-no in caves, because the oils in our skin can damage limestone cave formations. But they apparently can't damage gypsum, so we were able to touch the walls and exposed crystals as we went through the cave.
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It wasn't long before we started seeing the cave's main attraction: big clusters of gypsum crystals poking out of the walls and ceilings. Limestone doesn't crystallize like this, so these gypsum crystals really set this cave apart. And there are quite a lot of crystals scattered throughout the cave, making for a really spectacular sight.
The crystals' natural color is white, with some having a natural brown or orange hue. Any pink or blue colors you see in these photos actually comes from the light. The caverns recently installed a brand new lighting system in the cave, including spotlights, lights in the handrails to illuminate the paths, and colored lights that shine on the larger crystal formations. If you stand and look at the crystals for a minute, the lights shining on them will change from blue to pink and to various other colors.
Did I mention there are a LOT of crystals? I hardly put my camera down for the first half of the tour because anywhere you looked there was just so much to see.
The biggest crystal mass we saw was this one, which had to be at least ten feet long.
Did I mention there are a LOT of crystals? I hardly put my camera down for the first half of the tour because anywhere you looked there was just so much to see.
The biggest crystal mass we saw was this one, which had to be at least ten feet long.
Even the more mundane-looking walls were embedded with smaller crystals. That's what all those glints of light are here:
Gypsum caves, like limestone caves, do rely on the action of water to form. Gypsum is actually MORE water-soluble than limestone, which is why you only find gypsum caves in very dry, arid regions like western Texas and Oklahoma. In wetter areas like the eastern United States, heavier rains would quickly wash away the entire gypsum rock layer.
The small stream that was responsible for the formation of this cave crisscrossed the path at several points. Even when you couldn't see it, there were a few places where you could still hear it.
The small stream that was responsible for the formation of this cave crisscrossed the path at several points. Even when you couldn't see it, there were a few places where you could still hear it.
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And there were also a few interestingly-shaped rocks like these:
 The Bull (which I think looks more like a bison, but whatever) |  The Skull |
This was a pretty incredible place, and truly a unique experience. I would definitely recommend a stop if you're anywhere near northwestern Oklahoma!
In the area? You should also check out the beautiful scenery of the Glass Mountains and go crystal digging in the Great Salt Plains!
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