"Go forth, my children! See some other churches too!"
Okay, if you're planning a trip to Rome, most likely you're planning on going to Saint Peter's. As well you should - it's spectacular. But I'll assume you already know that Saint Peter's is awesome, so you don't need me to tell you about it.
You won't be surprised when I tell you there are a lot of churches in Rome. It is the center of the Catholic world after all. But seriously folks, there are A LOT of churches in Rome. Over 900, according to the 30 seconds of internet research I just did. Yowza! You can't possibly see that many churches in one visit!
Well, to help you out, here are my five favorites, which contain some stunning architecture, beautiful works of art, some interesting history, and even a little science!
You won't be surprised when I tell you there are a lot of churches in Rome. It is the center of the Catholic world after all. But seriously folks, there are A LOT of churches in Rome. Over 900, according to the 30 seconds of internet research I just did. Yowza! You can't possibly see that many churches in one visit!
Well, to help you out, here are my five favorites, which contain some stunning architecture, beautiful works of art, some interesting history, and even a little science!
#5: Santa Maria degli Angeli
The unassuming exterior
Santa Maria degli Angeli is conveniently located just a few short blocks away from the Termini train station. The front doors of the church (depicted over there on the right) are rather unassuming. There's just a bit of an old wall (actually a fragment of a wall from Roman baths) with a small doorway in it. If you weren't looking for it you'd just walk right by, thinking it was just some tiny old back alleyway or something.
Once you walk inside, however, it just completely opens up. The sheer immensity of the space almost smacks you in the face and you are overwhelmed by the amount of air and light inside. This sensation is helped by the fact that there is little else in the church beyond the walls. Many other churches are so full of columns altars, and pews that they seem claustrophobic. But that's not the case here. This church is wide open, and you can appreciate the size of it.
It also has some nice sculptures and paintings on the walls, including a few pieces of more modern artwork, but that's not the main reason it's on this list...
Once you walk inside, however, it just completely opens up. The sheer immensity of the space almost smacks you in the face and you are overwhelmed by the amount of air and light inside. This sensation is helped by the fact that there is little else in the church beyond the walls. Many other churches are so full of columns altars, and pews that they seem claustrophobic. But that's not the case here. This church is wide open, and you can appreciate the size of it.
It also has some nice sculptures and paintings on the walls, including a few pieces of more modern artwork, but that's not the main reason it's on this list...
and the massive interior
Never forget to look up when you visit a church! This gorgeous modern stained glass piece is found at the center of the dome.
Hey! You got science in my church!
The most interesting thing to be found in Santa Maria degli Angeli, especially if you're a science nerd like I am, is this: the Clementine Sundial. Completed in 1702, it tracks the positions or the sun, planets, and even some stars.
But how does it work? I'm glad you asked. There is a small pinhole (containing a small prism) in the top part of the right wall of the church, which lets in a tiny beam of sunlight. Every day at solar noon, the beam of light projects onto a line (a meridian line - coincident with 12 degrees 30 minutes east longitude) on the floor that runs diagonally across the right side of the church. At the summer solstice, the light will shine on the end of the line closest to the pinhole, then is spends the next six months traveling slowly down the length of the line until it finally reaches the other end at the winter solstice. Then it turns around and comes back. The line has measurement markings all along it to denote the sun's position, and also has pictures of the various zodiac signs so you can tell which star sign the sun is currently in. The pictures of cancer and capricorn are found at either end, since the solstices occur during those two signs. There are also marks along the line showing the positions of various stars, which can be determined by switching out the prism in the pinhole.
The sundial has been operational for over 300 years, and will continue to function for many years to come. Not something you'd expect to find in a church, but there it is!
But how does it work? I'm glad you asked. There is a small pinhole (containing a small prism) in the top part of the right wall of the church, which lets in a tiny beam of sunlight. Every day at solar noon, the beam of light projects onto a line (a meridian line - coincident with 12 degrees 30 minutes east longitude) on the floor that runs diagonally across the right side of the church. At the summer solstice, the light will shine on the end of the line closest to the pinhole, then is spends the next six months traveling slowly down the length of the line until it finally reaches the other end at the winter solstice. Then it turns around and comes back. The line has measurement markings all along it to denote the sun's position, and also has pictures of the various zodiac signs so you can tell which star sign the sun is currently in. The pictures of cancer and capricorn are found at either end, since the solstices occur during those two signs. There are also marks along the line showing the positions of various stars, which can be determined by switching out the prism in the pinhole.
The sundial has been operational for over 300 years, and will continue to function for many years to come. Not something you'd expect to find in a church, but there it is!
#4: San Clemente
Another unassuming exterior
The church of San Clemente is right down the street from the Colosseum, less than 5 minutes walking, so if you're in the neighborhood you may as well stop in! Like Santa Maria degli Angeli, San Clemente doesn't look all that impressive from the street; it's boxy brick slab of a building. You pass through a charming courtyard to enter the church, which dates to the 11th century. It's a beautiful (if small) church, with some beautiful mosaics, but the real reason it made the list is the history behind it. The 11th century church you see was actually built on top of a 4th century church, and that 4th century church was in turn built on top of a 1st century pagan temple and housing complex. It's like the Inception of churches: a church within a church within a church. Basically, once one church was deemed architecturally unstable, it was filled in with rubble, and a new church was just built on top of the old one, with new columns added below for extra support.
The uppermost church (the 11th century one) is free to enter, but to go downstairs to see the other two costs five euros. If you're at all interested in history it's definitely worth the cost! It's an interesting contrast in architectural styles, and it shows how the city has changed over the centuries. Unlike many other Roman cities, Rome has been continuously inhabited since the days of the Roman Empire, and a visit to San Clemente can help illustrate that progression from ancient times to today. On the lowest level, you can even hear running water, which is actually flowing through a portion of the old Roman sewer system.
Unfortunately, I don't have photos of my own to show you, since you are not allowed to take photos inside San Clemente. This is one of my biggest travel pet peeves, since you know they only have that rule so they can sell more postcards and guidebooks! But alas, there were too many staff members around for me to break the rules, so I will refer you to this website for additional photos: http://www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/rome-san-clemente
The uppermost church (the 11th century one) is free to enter, but to go downstairs to see the other two costs five euros. If you're at all interested in history it's definitely worth the cost! It's an interesting contrast in architectural styles, and it shows how the city has changed over the centuries. Unlike many other Roman cities, Rome has been continuously inhabited since the days of the Roman Empire, and a visit to San Clemente can help illustrate that progression from ancient times to today. On the lowest level, you can even hear running water, which is actually flowing through a portion of the old Roman sewer system.
Unfortunately, I don't have photos of my own to show you, since you are not allowed to take photos inside San Clemente. This is one of my biggest travel pet peeves, since you know they only have that rule so they can sell more postcards and guidebooks! But alas, there were too many staff members around for me to break the rules, so I will refer you to this website for additional photos: http://www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/rome-san-clemente
San Clemente's adorable courtyard
#3: San Giovanni in Laterano
Now THERE'S an impressive facade.
If you continue down the street from San Clemente, you'll soon arrive at the next church on my list, San Giovanni in Laterano (or St. John Lateran in English). This is probably the second most important church to Catholics because it is actually the pope's home church, in his office as the bishop of Rome. He even leads masses here on occasion.
This one's got a great exterior facade, with tall columns, and statues of saints on top of it and everything. Only, uh, that's not actually where you enter. You have to go around the building on the right side towards the back to find the actual visitors' entrance.
In front of the side entrance is an Egyptian obelisk. There are several obelisks scattered throughout the city (those ancient Romans sure did love relocating Egyptian obelisks!), but this one has the distinction of being the world's largest standing obelisk.
This one's got a great exterior facade, with tall columns, and statues of saints on top of it and everything. Only, uh, that's not actually where you enter. You have to go around the building on the right side towards the back to find the actual visitors' entrance.
In front of the side entrance is an Egyptian obelisk. There are several obelisks scattered throughout the city (those ancient Romans sure did love relocating Egyptian obelisks!), but this one has the distinction of being the world's largest standing obelisk.
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True to Baroque style, every niche is highly ornamented.
The interior is truly grand. No silly meridian lines or buried archaeological sites are necessary to impress you here! It's big, it's bright, it's grandly embellished, and it demands your awe.
The basilica was first consecrated in the year 324, but has undergone several major reconstructions over the centuries. Most of what you can see today dates to the baroque era, built in the 16th and 17th centuries. The baroque style is known for its heavily ornamented details on every available surface, and San Giovanni certainly lives up to that standard. Everywhere you look there is something to see.
The basilica was first consecrated in the year 324, but has undergone several major reconstructions over the centuries. Most of what you can see today dates to the baroque era, built in the 16th and 17th centuries. The baroque style is known for its heavily ornamented details on every available surface, and San Giovanni certainly lives up to that standard. Everywhere you look there is something to see.
That's the friggin' ceiling!!
That little white chair is the Pope's cathedra: his special chair which is symbolic of the authority of a bishop. Fun fact: this is also where we get the word "cathedral." You can't call a church a cathedral unless it contains a cathedra.
The nave, lined with statues of the 12 apostles.
One thing I learned about myself during my trip to Rome is that I really enjoy baroque sculpture. Baroque sculpture is highly romanticized, and I love the way the sculptors can convey such extremes of expression, movement, and emotion in stone. I also love how a sculptor can make something as heavy as stone seem as light as cloth. So a highlight for me were the statues of the twelve apostles which lined the nave of the church. In 1703, the pope at the time sponsored a sculpture contest among the foremost artists of the day to decorate the nave, and the seven winners came up with these twelve designs.
#2: Santa Maria sopra Minerva
Another church with a bland exterior
Our next church isn't as grandiose as San Giovanni, but it makes up for it with uniqueness. Santa Maria sopra Minerva is in the center of Rome, right behind the Pantheon. "Sopra" is the Italian word for "over" and this church was built over an ancient temple to the Roman goddess Minerva. Though unlike San Clemente the lower church is not open to the public.
What makes this church special, is what it lacks: the Baroque embellishments that you'll find on many other churches in Rome. In fact, Santa Maria sopra Minerva, which was consecrated in the Gothic period in 1370, is the only remaining Gothic church in Rome that didn't undergo a major renovation in the Baroque period. And I for one am glad it didn't. Compared to the ornate business of churches like San Giovanni, Minerva seems quite simple and serene.
One of my favorite features is the midnight blue ceiling. Blue is not a color that you see a whole lot of in churches, but it makes the ceiling here become reminiscent of the night sky (complete with stars) and really adds to the feeling of serenity in the church.
What makes this church special, is what it lacks: the Baroque embellishments that you'll find on many other churches in Rome. In fact, Santa Maria sopra Minerva, which was consecrated in the Gothic period in 1370, is the only remaining Gothic church in Rome that didn't undergo a major renovation in the Baroque period. And I for one am glad it didn't. Compared to the ornate business of churches like San Giovanni, Minerva seems quite simple and serene.
One of my favorite features is the midnight blue ceiling. Blue is not a color that you see a whole lot of in churches, but it makes the ceiling here become reminiscent of the night sky (complete with stars) and really adds to the feeling of serenity in the church.
"Christ the Redeemer"
It's all in the details in Santa Maria sopra Minerva. I especially love the intricate and colorful geometric patterns that line the archways. The rows of rose-shaped stained glass windows are also filled with colorful geometry, and stand in beautiful contrast to many of the other church windows you'll find in Europe.
In front of the altar stands the statue of Christ the Redeemer, a lesser-known work by Michelangelo (yes, that Michelangelo). So look for that if you're a Michelangelo fan.
There are also quite a large number of tombs in this church, including several popes, wealthy nobles, and even a saint - Saint Catherine is entombed in front of the altar at the center of the church. Or, at least her body is. Her head in enshrined in Siena.
In front of the altar stands the statue of Christ the Redeemer, a lesser-known work by Michelangelo (yes, that Michelangelo). So look for that if you're a Michelangelo fan.
There are also quite a large number of tombs in this church, including several popes, wealthy nobles, and even a saint - Saint Catherine is entombed in front of the altar at the center of the church. Or, at least her body is. Her head in enshrined in Siena.
I loved Santa Maria sopra Minerva for its unpretentious beauty, charm, and serenity. It just has a different feel to it than any other church I visited in Rome. It has a simple elegance about it that can't be matched by Rome's more ostentatious churches. And speaking of ostentatious....
#1: Santa Maria della Vittoria
Just a few short blocks from Santa Maria degli Angeli is my #1 choice: Santa Maria della Vittoria. It was dedicated in 1620 (though it underwent major renovation in the 19th century after a fire), and was named to commemorate Christian victories over the Turks in Eastern Europe. The front facade was completely concealed by scaffolding when I was there (June 2012), so let's go right inside.
This is another heavily embellished Baroque church, even more embellished than San Giovanni, despite being smaller in size. Every wall and every corner just drips with grandeur. There is gold all over the place, and much of the upper reaches of the building are covered with white angels, which really stand out against the gold background.
The ceiling is dominated by a massive fresco of the Virgin Mary in heaven, leading the good angels to victory over the rebel angels.
This is another heavily embellished Baroque church, even more embellished than San Giovanni, despite being smaller in size. Every wall and every corner just drips with grandeur. There is gold all over the place, and much of the upper reaches of the building are covered with white angels, which really stand out against the gold background.
The ceiling is dominated by a massive fresco of the Virgin Mary in heaven, leading the good angels to victory over the rebel angels.
Remember earlier when I mentioned that my trip to Rome made me discover my love of Baroque sculpture? Well, this church contains some absolute masterpieces. Let's start front and center with the altarpiece, which is the first thing to catch your eye when you enter the church. And to catch your eye in a church this ornate is quite a feat. It depicts golden rays of light bursting forth from a heavenly patch of clouds.
In a well-appointed alcove on the right side of the church is a beautiful sculpture of Mary presenting the Carmelite monk Simon Stock with his scapular (a monk's garment), which looks airy and light. The halo of illuminated stars around Mary's head is also quite charming.
The small alcove to the right of the main altar is dedicated to St. Joseph, the father of Jesus. It contains a sculpture by Domenico Guidi depicting an angel appearing to Joseph to inform him of Mary's divine conception.
And thus the angel spoketh: "Hey! Hey Joe! Look over there! There's another totally awesome sculpture on the opposite wall!" To whichforth Joseph respondethed: "Lady, I just want to take a nap. Gimme five more minutes, okay?"
And finally we come to the alcove on the left side of the altar, which contains one of the most famous pieces by Bernini, one of Italy's greatest (if not THE greatest) Baroque sculptors. The Ecstasy of St. Teresa depicts a vision seen by the 16th century Christian mystic Teresa of Avila. In her vision, an angel appeared to Teresa holding a golden spear. The angel then repeatedly thrust the spear into Teresa's heart, causing her immense pain, but also an immense feeling of ecstasy in the love of God. Bernini does an excellent job of capturing that expression of ecstasy on Teresa's face, which is in stark contrast to the bemused look on the angel's face. Bernini also shows off his renowned ability to sculpt fabric in Teresa's extremely voluminous robes. The overall effect of this sculpture (as well as the previous one) is enhanced by the metal beams of golden light seeming emanating from the window above, which give it a very heavenly effect. A glorious work of art in a truly glorious church.
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